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Google Talk




  1. Okay, to give the background. Approx. 8 weeks ago I discovered one of my hives had no queen and a pile of supercedure cells. I thought "sweet,leave them to do their thing" I noticed 3 weeks later upon inspection that I couldn't find the queen. There was a small section of eggs and very young brood. Only 1 egg per cell. Looked normal so I thought I had a queen, not laying workers. I went back in today. It is full of drones and it is entirely drone brood. Not scattered but big, swathes of it, so I think it is a poorly mated queen. I certainly can't find her and It wasn't the warmest for mating flights. Either way something has gone wrong. Looking at my options, I am quite happy to shake out the hive, let the workers find the other 3 hives in the apiary and strengthen them. It seems to be the easiest option.. I have placed in a frame of open brood (eggs, some just hatched by the looks of). So will take a look next weekend, if no queen cells I might do the shake out. Any thoughts on my plan?
  2. So the season’s chugging along quite well and the girls are bringing in the nectar… Filling up most of the box, so I add another super… then they fill that up… and the honey flow stops. Is there any way to get them to cap the honey? I was wondering if I could feed them some light syrup to stimulate wax production or something… but don’t want them to mix sugar in with honey.
  4. Hi Team, my name is Jess, I'm 33 and live in Auckland city. I'm a gardener by trade but have an extensive varied professional history. I love NZ and the land, the plants, the soil etc, and am seriously looking into producing honey and marketing internationally in small scale to start, but with big dreams! I am very down to earth, reliable and I gain trust easily. I think I can really sell something I believe in, and want to prove myself by getting into this market. I have always been passionate about bees and honey, and don't want to wait any longer to take the first step into this venture. Does anyone have advice on how to start, how to get in touch with potential business partners? At this stage I am looking for a beekeeper who is making the product and is interested in partnering up with someone who can do all the marketing, advertising, client relations and sales etc. This is my first attempt at reaching out so apologies if I seem naive, trust me I have the energy and passion to make this work! Many thanks in advance. Jess
  5. Could I use a 3/4 super as a swarm trap or am I better off with a FD box?
  6. Good day all, I am just getting into the bee scene, been reading and researching for the last 18 months to make sure this is something I would like to do. I have decided to build my own bee boxes and the way I am getting my bees is to trap a swarm, my swarm trap is ready to go and was starting to build my boxes from 19mm ply that was free. I know there is thoughts of buying your boxes being more cost effective and easier etc. I am currently attending a bee club (yet to join as a member) and looking for a mentor, have also obtained my equipment for this beeautiful hobby. I enjoy doing stuff for myself and building things which gives me a better idea of the situation and environment, that way I know why and what I am getting myself into. So the question....... I have many plans to build langstroth hive boxes, some sourced, some converted from imperial but few of 8 frame plans. I am looking at going down the 8 frame 3/4 depth for all my boxes, but this question will probably cover all box configurations in the langstroth hives design. I cut the sides of my first two boxes and laid my home made frames from my swarm trap onto the one side just to confirm I am on the right track, which is when I came up with this question. So the side bar of the frame is 33mm used in NZ (used to be 35mm from imperial), taking that and multiplying it by 8 comes to 264mm (33 x 8). However the inside dimension of the NZ 8 frame box according to this (http://www.dave-cushman.net/bee/lang.html) is 310 - 313mm which is a space of 46mm +. Is this correct as that is enough for an additional frame along with more space? From everything I have researched and seen, the frame spacing is side by side and is where the bee spacing comes from the design of the Langstroth hive? I have also seen spacers for frames which I gather is the reason for not having the 33mm side spacing on the frames, otherwise would one not just increase the spacing side? Can someone clarify what I am missing or if my calculations are wrong or is this the norm? I know I hear "build it and they will come", but am also aware of the mess of a hive when it comes to pulling out the frames with cross comb so any clarification will be welcomed, or is it suggested I just go to 10 frame mediums? Cheers
  7. I want to unite a 6 frame 3/4 depth nuc that has a queen with a large hive which is queenless. I am planning to transfer the nuc into a box then immediately put it on top of the large hive using the newspaper method. The nuc is currently about 10m away from the large hive. My question is how do I move the nuc without the foraging bees from the nuc getting lost or staying at the original location? I wondered about moving the nuc into the box and putting it on the large hive in the late afternoon, and then putting the empty nuc box back in the original location and hope that any bees that return there will go in, and later on I could take the nuc box and shake the bees into the new box at the new location. I guess that the time taken for them to break through the newspaper will be enough for them to get reoriented to the new location.
  8. How long can I keep mated queens with attendants in a queen cage for? Or is there a better solution? So, I’ve got nine newly mated queens that I need to remove from my queen castles because I have ripe cells to replace them with tomorrow (day 10). I am going to use the mated queens to replace old queens, but the forecast is terrible for opening hives for a seek and destroy mission tomorrow. And Im going hunting on Monday.... will they last until Tuesday, or do I need to set up a ‘bank’?
  9. How do you set up your sloped site to best manage about 10 or so hives. In my case i can drive the truck right to the bottom of the site. Also, do sheep rub on hives and do i need to protect them? cheers, Paul
  10. Yes, the forecast is bleak and I haven’t had to do this before... So, what is the best method for harvesting ripe queen cells and transferring them to nucs at another apiary? Obviously it’s the bad weather and opening lots of hives is my concern. I dont have an incubator.
  11. I have 2 hives, one healthy and one that has been queenless for several weeks at least. I knew there was something wrong with it but only had the chance to look thoroughly this week when I shook off the bees (was mostly focused of checking for signs of AFB) and noticed no open brood or eggs, a reduction in honey and just a lot of pollen or vacant cells in the lower box. They have been grumpy for some time. I noticed one queen cell with a developed pupa in it but not closed yet so they are trying to sort it out themselves. If she does survive/mate/lay this will take several weeks by which time I would lose most of the colony, am I right? Or the workers will start laying and kill the new queen. Help me work out what to do, I know this is a pretty common situation with new beeks such as me, I would probably choose the way where I can learn the most and introducing a bought virgin or mated queen just seems a like the easy way out (or likely to fail). The healthy calm hive has good solid brood/uncapped larvae on several frames. Sorry I know this kind of question keeps coming up.
  12. Due to reasons, I won't be able to add a queen to a hive that was made queenless approx 9 days ago. I was expecting to add it after 3 days but stuff happened. I presume they will have started on queen cells. Should I hunt them out and remove them when I introduce the queen? What are the potential risks? Virgin killing the queen or swarming?
  13. I see from the forum that the commercial guys are feeding their hives at the moment with the rough weather. My school hives have quite a lot of honey stored so I presume they should be okay. Is it only hives without honey in honey supers you have to worry about? Or do I need to give everything a topup?
  14. I am considering joining two FD brood boxes together using the newspaper method. The queen will be in the top box. Does this matter? I can't simply rearrange boxes as the box that will be on the bottom is one I modified to accept an oxalic acid vaporiser and has a 17mm strip around the base, with an entrance gap. Thank you
  15. 1. Do the attendants in a queen cage feed the queen using the candy or just what they have 'on board'? (in other words will they feed her regardless of immediate access to food?) 2. Should I move some of my mating nucs to different areas (my apiaries in different locations) to access a wider variety of drones/jeans, rather than just mating my queens at/from home (naturally)? Cheers
  16. So there is a tree with a deep crevice running into it, inside of which bees have set up their home. The depth is such that reaching in I couldn't even feel where they were. So I'm wondering how I can coax them out and capture them.
  17. Hi All, A google search to a problem I’m having turned up am Americans similar question on this forum, I just wanted to pick the brains of the bee knowledgable community. I have a property in the Waikato, with security cameras, all of a sudden (September) I am getting up to 100 activations a day from one of these cameras from what look to me (your opinion may correct me) like bees sometimes bumble bees, more than wasps, being drawn directly to the camera, and landing by the lens and interacting with (attacking/mating with/pollinating). Google is awash with conflicting uneducated (and pro insecticide) opinions, so I thought I’d ask those who know, what is going on, and what I can do to dissuade them, If bees, obviously a non harmful technique (ie not an insecticide) is preferred. there is not a “wasp nest behind the camera” a couple of factors I’ve considered are -camera uses infra red for its night vision, can’t get a definitive of this is on during day too. could this be attractive to bees? -this camera attaches via a strong magnet, the other ones on my property don’t and while get buzzed occasionally, don’t seem as attractive. any suggestions and solutions greatly appreciated. I have attached a compressed edited video below, and a link to the product. positioned on a patio, easy facing, under clearlight. https://www.arlo.com/en-us/products/arlo-pro/default.aspx E4793E9F-339F-4844-9939-D626C3714FEB.mov
  18. Background; First check of the season done a few days ago. Couldn’t see brood but colony numbers seemed quite good. Orange, yellow sandy white coloured pollen coming in at Tanners Point. Just one Wintered down new hive -bees looked happy all winter. Very active. Have been top feeding my one hive over Winter having started with a nuc in late Autumn (long story, exited Auckland, returned to live in childhood stomping ground, thought I had swarm, didn’t, local commercial beekeeper took pity on me with a lovely nucleus and is now mentoring me when I need it) Colony seems to have expanded in numbers from 5 frames to 8 and amply covers all but the outside frames which are plastic. Full depth brood box. My girls seem to be stoically refusing to draw out comb on these outside frames. Bottom board was all wet and funky so I replaced it with a dry cedar bottom board. Kept the small winter entrance on. Did a quick initial check only- since the weather was changeable-8/10 frames choka with honey (and probably pollen when I take a closer look). Couldn’t spot any brood, and being a new bee hobbyist have had a slightly sleepless night worrying there’s no brood, and is my queen ok. Feel slightly better reading Dansars post re no brood yet. Replaced those undrawn frames with my only two decent drawn frames and moved them to position 4 and 7. 8/10 frames chock full of capped honey in what should be a brood box . Will have another closer look for queen on the next sunny day. I’m fairly confident she’s there. Colony very calm and busy all through Winter, bringing in nectar and pollen. Young active hive with a young mated queen who doesn’t seem to be laying at the moment but all indications are that she is present. I Only have undrawn 3/4 frames and supers now -wax moth got all my other decent drawn out frames in the chaos of storage during move. Old hive ware all 3/4D. New Hiveware FD. Tanners point has a very mild climate and lots of flowers so our season might be early here, we are right on the sea, so Winter overnight temps 5-8 degrees, day temps are between 12-18degrees at the moment. Questions: -do I need to find the queen? It seems a bit chilly still to unpick the hive....Wait till it’s a sunny day and temperature reaches 20 degrees to do a proper check and clean up of burr comb? -when do I Stop feeding sugar syrup? The colony seems to be doing well with it available....I’m hesitant to stop. -putting two capped honey frames in the 1 and 10 positions seems daft if the Bees aren’t doing that- they had two empty undrawn frames on the outer edges where it was cold and damp, should I take these capped honey frames out and put the empty plastic frames back in position 1 and 10? -at what temperature range is it reasonable to add another empty undrawn FD brood box? There’s no room for the queen to lay in this existing honey filled brood box... -Do I take capped honey out (and pollen probably) on FD frames, and keep it stored in a cool place, sealed away from wax moth -to put back later as bees require it? -my new colony is on FD frames. My existing hive ware is all 3/4 D and ihave enough ready to go for 2 x 6 super hives all 3/4 D. So- I’m planning to have the 2brood boxes FD and the honey supers 3/4 D. (Lifting FD honey supers might be a stretch for me)-do you see problems with this initial plan? -when can I put another empty super FD brood box on? Baring in mind this new FD super only the new black plastic frames undrawn as yet, so it is going to take the workers a while to draw it out for queen to lay brood.
  19. Some of my honey is very, coursely crystallised.. I mixed in about 1 tablespoon of a finer honey and stirred and stirred.. Still the same.
  20. I have been melting wax and putting them into moulds or pots but unfortunately when the wax sets, it splits or cracks at the surface. See the pic below. How do I prevent this from happening? I'd like to have a smooth top surface. I note in the "Practical Bee..." book it says that if 'wax cools rapidly the blocks will crack.' I have been doing this on warm/hot days so not sure what the solution is, apart from a warm-turned-off oven which I don't think is ideal. Thanks.
  21. We have purchased land in Taipa, Northland with 6 hectares of manuka and an additional hectare of grazing land. We eventually want to do permaculture on the land but not for 5 years until the mortgage is paid off. The previous owner operated a small Apiary on site so we are thinking of leasing the land. Is anyone able to advise the best place/way to advertise the land for lease? Thanks in advance for any advice.
  22. How do i get my supers (10-20) extracted in the Waikato area? I'd also like to be able to sell some of this honey? Thanks
  23. Hi all, Hopefully a simple question that I think I know the answer to, but I'm wanting confirmation. I had some extracted boxes that had been stored 'wet' as I was led to believe this was the best way to store them over winter - all contained in a very large plastic bag. 2 x 3/4 boxes with 10 frames each. When I came to take them out, I realised that wax moths had gone through them and completely ruined the frames. Must have had a hole in the large bag, as i had also sealed it! I know I can freeze them to kill the larvae & moths, but I wonder if there is any point? The wax in the frames is ruined, so is the best solution to burn them? Or is it worth trying saving the wooden frames and removing the wax - not sure how? Then adding new foundation back into the frames? Suggestions please :-) Thanks Andy
  24. I checked my hive yesterday and found bad infestation of Wax moth.Never had it before but lots of droppings and bee cocoons about 14 and wrecked comb ( frames are all plastic) Couldn't find queen. Found some capped and a little uncapped brood...only drones.(Drone layer)If I put in a new mated queen would the hive revive, without starting from scratch..There are about 3 frames of honey in the Super.
  25. I am noticing that despite the honey flow continuing around here albeit a little slower, I am adding supers despite the two existing supers not being fully capped. I am assuming the high humidity will be making it difficult for the girls to reduce the moisture content prior to capping.
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