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milkandhoney

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milkandhoney last won the day on March 26 2018

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  • DECA Holder
    Yes
  • Beekeeping Experience
    Semi Commercial

Location

  • Location
    Hawkes Bay

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  1. Oh good grief! Honestly...do these reporters not have access to google!
  2. I had a similar situation with a neighbour who is establishing an Avocado orchard. She asked if I would put hives on her property. The orchard is less than 800 metres from my current apiary and while I told her my bees would cover that distance, she wanted hives closer to her trees. In order to prevent her arranging someone else to put hives there and risking both overstocking and disease, I opted to place some of my hives there and it has worked out well. Popping next door to tend them isn't arduous and she has been extremely interested in learning about the bees and very proactive in letting me know if she finds wasp nests etc. As bees play such an important role in any gardening enterprise, I imagine your gardening group will also be very interested in learning about them and it is a great opportunity to educate them.
  3. The inserted link loops back to this page.
  4. It might sound odd, but after I wash my gloves, I put them on wet to stretch them to shape again. Then carefully remove them and let them air dry. Much easier to put on when they are already shaped.
  5. World First - Wasp Genome Completed WWW.SCOOP.CO.NZ In a world first, New Zealand researchers have sequenced the genome of three wasps, two of which are invasive wasps in New Zealand, paving the way for new methods of control for these significant pests... In a world first, New Zealand researchers have sequenced the genome of three wasps, two of which are invasive wasps in New Zealand, paving the way for new methods of control for these significant pests. Genomics Aotearoa researchers working at the University of Otago and Te Herenga Waka-Victoria University of Wellington, alongside colleagues from the UK, Australia and California have successfully completed a three-year project to sequence and interpret the genomes of the common wasp (Vespula vulgaris), German wasp (Vespula germanica), and the western yellowjacket (Vespula pensylvanica).
  6. It's not just aircraft that do that! You can maybe cut aircraft some slack for wind drift, but with GPS systems there's really no excuse. I have been sprayed on directly from a big overhead ground based unit while monitoring for pests in a Vineyard here. "Muppets" wasn't the word I used at the time! (Pesticide obviously, not Glyphosate.)
  7. Hi and Welcome to to the forum DavidY Umpteen other Beekeepers with have their say shortly I am sure. My two cents worth: If possible get alongside another beekeeper, they can show you the basics and you can get an idea if it is for you. It is not for everyone. While the initial purchase price is important, getting a clean healthy hive is paramount. There is no point buying a cheap hive if it is full of diseased or heavily infested bees. My preference would be to start with new gear and a nice new Nuc colony, you can start with smaller numbers of bees and get used to them as the colony grows. Contrary to popular belief, bees actually need to be handled and checked regularly. Putting them in a flow hive and leaving them to it is signing their death warrant. The flow hive is a fantastic design, but it was developed in Australia, where they do not have Varroa mites. In New Zealand, a hive left to its own devices will die. Like any other form of livestock, there will be ongoing costs/inputs; varroa treatments, foundation sheets, new supers, gear and of course time. If you are prepared to commit, then go for it. As for yield, from 0 - 50+ kgs! The size of your Colony and its health, where you site your hive in relation to Sun, Shelter, Forage, Competition and how well you manage it to prevent swarming and then keep ahead of the flow is what determines the size of your harvest. Knowing how much honey to leave on for feed and how much to take for yourself, these are things that you will learn over time. Did I mention learn? Learn, learn learn. There is something new all the time!
  8. Many of you are in fact correct of course. My comments were however, for Maurice Field, who describes his experience level as Beginner Beekeeper. As a long time Hawkes Bay Beekeeper, who has apiaries in Eskdale and numerous other parts of the Bay, at no point would I recommend removing honey now and not testing for Tutin. It is simply too prevalent here. This honey may in fact have been removed prior to 31 Dec. He may intend to use it only for personal consumption, he may not intend to barter or sell it. Or, he may intend to do all those things. Incidentally, the 31 Dec cutoff date is arbitrary at best, as most sites had Scolopa nymphs by the last week of November this season.
  9. Good morning and welcome. I suggest approaching the local Beekeepers Club, they may be of help. To the best of my knowledge there is nobody locally that extracts on behalf. Please remember that the all honey extracted now MUST be tested for Tutin. Cheers.
  10. Would one of our Scientist members be able to clarify the situation with regard to Bacillus thuringiensis Var. Kurstaki please, both chemically and legally. I am fairly sure that there has been research done on various Bt isolates that have been found to be toxic to a number of non-target Insect Orders. (As per Dansar's post above.)
  11. Yep. Years ago my brother and cousin were out night shooting on the Station next door. Arrived back really late after a long walk home. Four flat tyres on the Landrover.
  12. Yes. Bottom box, excluder, super then division board. Second brood box with Queen above that. No, I don't want her laying in the honey super, that goes back up on top when the hive is recombined.
  13. I use the vertical split method every spring, I started doing it when I didn't want any more hives. I usually carry it out in late Sept/early Oct. My version goes: Bottom brood box with brood and eggs, then a Super, then Hive mat with opening to rear of hive, Top brood box with Queen and plenty of pollen and honey. If the hive is really cranking, I will put another queen excluder and Super on top of this also. The original foragers return to the bottom box and fill the lower super with honey. There is plenty of feed coming in and the hive produces good quality emergency cells. The hive is not overcrowded and the resulting virgin queens scrap it out rather than swarm. You can of course go back later and remove surplus emergency cells if you prefer. I did that in the first couple of years but decided the extra time wasn't worth it. If I'm lucky and the Spring weather gods smile on us, some of these virgin girls mate and turn into decent queens which I take out and use elsewhere, otherwise they get squished. Either way, one month later I remove the queens from the bottom boxes and recombine the hive with newspaper. The hive mat with the rear entrance gets put on the top of the hive (so the forages from the top box can get back in). At this point the top brood box has a very healthy population because the queen has been getting on with business upstairs. The bottom brood box has heaps of laying room and the hive typically has masses of bees. Timed correctly I end up with stonking big production hives ready for the main flow. As a system it requires only an extra hive mat per hive, rather than all the gear needed for a true split. It also means that you manage the number of hives you have, rather than ending up with more than you can provide forage for. (I have never sold hives, there are already too many).
  14. We used Crimson Clover on our road frontage last year and it has just started flowering again this spring, it has a lovely deep red flower. We have oversown the same area with Phacelia and white clover this year as well to mix it up a bit. Got a lot of funny looks and toots from the neighbours as we were out there with the rotary hoe last spring, sowing the long acre!
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