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Christi An

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Christi An last won the day on June 4 2018

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  1. not that i know of. Beekeeping does not have as big of a lobby as other agricultural fields...
  2. commercial means that your primary source of income is beekeeping. mind you the german beekeepers cant produce a commodity that sells for an overinflated price, while having to pay way higher taxes and facing even more ridiculous regulations. so those that are commercial there actually do have to know a thing or two.
  3. Take a kitchen towel and drop a few drops of cloves oil on it. put it into a plastic box, close the lid and let it stay there overnight. the smell of the cloves oil acts as a natural deterrent to bees.
  4. alternatively a quick sandblast (if they are unwaxed) or lick with a rough sandpaper might also alleviate that problem. from the manufacturers perspective roughing up the injection mould would also be possible I myself am certainly going to go back to wooden frames (and certainly without those retarded hoffman sides) for the brood chamber
  5. that might have to do with the fact that bees dont seem to particularly like plastic frames, however their design is also optimized for cheap production and not beekeeping. If the small hive beetle ever makes it to NZ (which i dont hope) theyll be gone in 2 seasons... But even the wooden frames i have come across so far would have room for improvement. Bigger and thicker Top bars for example would help greatly reduce any burr comb. The concept of Beespace applies in 3 dimensions.
  6. you know... if frame manufacturers wouldnt employ first semester design students and actually cared about fundamental things like "bee space" you would not need forestry equipment to lift of a honey super. every time I open one of my hives I am disgusted how stupidly hives are designed around here. As if it was the aim to kill as many bees as possible. another thing i will have to sort out in the future... Building hiveware 100 % myself.
  7. get yourself one of those honey refractometers. aliexpress will give you plenty of cheap options.
  8. Also Bees that are suffering from diseases (high mite load!) can become more grumpy. I suggest checking mite loads as well.
  9. plenty of examples where there were ballots regarding big projects in western democracies. Switzerland is a prime example where often policicians failed with stupid ideas because the voters were smart enough to say "no" and I reckon thats how a democracy should work.
  10. if the taxpayer is supposed to pay for something, he/she should be asked first. As for paying for the (costly) development of a varroa treatment. If I helped finance the whole endeavour I would then in return expect to recieve treatments at a reduced / no price. philbee... ever thought abouy crowdfunding? just an idea... As for AFB those "hard case" beekeepers that have been repeatedly non compliant should bear the full cost of the system.
  11. so the AFB strategy seems to not be working. I had the same thought when I read all those AFB case studies in the Journal... the AFB elimination approach (has a similar endeavour ever worked out anywhere and anywhen in human history ?) relies that all beekeepers engage and work together. Plenty of Beekeepers seem to continue to ignore every procedure related to AFB management (its a miracle they still manage to keep the mites at bay) as long as those few Individuals (and most importantly the ones you do not know about) are not prosecuted properly and made to stop their damaging practices you can throw as much taxpayers money at the problem as you want. also seems to be very common to just leave hives somewhere and not care about (and not even register) them even when the owners are found why are they not prosecuted?
  12. When i started Beekeeping i did spray B401 onto live bees once (because i didnt know better) The bees were fine, but, unfortunately so were the mites. i still had to treat them in autumn. I wouldnt get too excited...
  13. all I did was point out an alternative method to treat a heavily infested hive, that has been proven to work very well in different regions including here. I also pointed out some of the underlying principles as to why it works and hinted at the fact that feral bees have a very similar behavior in similar circumstances. all you did was state 2 true but irrelevant and VERY generic facts and that it would not work... yes that is very ignorant behavior. also no need to hide behind politics, any nz beekeeping community (is there such a thing?) or a british comedy show ?
  14. sorry but that is just a very ignorant excuse because you do not want to believe something might work that you never even considered trying. Ive actually already done it here as well, results were the same as in europe albeit only with a few hives. But I see no reason why it should not always work perfectly (on the contrary you get away with doing it much later than you had to do if there was an actual cold winter) Of course differences in climate can make a difference, but its usually the other way around. What works in climates with way colder extremes (Germany does actually get hotter in summer so its not generally colder) usually will also work in more temperate climates. Things that work in temperate climates however will come blowing into your face when temperatures suddenly reach -15 degrees. Thats also why hive losses generally are lower in warmer climates (check the statistics if you dont believe me) you just get away with more things. Beehives do need HEALTHY and longliving Bees to make it through winter, both will not come from diseased brood. Most treatments are not quick enough if infestation levels are extremely high. If all brood is removed the queen will ramp up her egg laying immediately (you can do the math how long it takes her to reach the roughly 10000 eggs a hive needs to overwinter). It is fine if you at the moment get away with just putting in strips of synthetics 2 times a year and praying. I do hope that this will continue to work a long time. If things develop like they did in Europe and the US (and I have no reason to doubt that - but im not a scientist) they wont. In a grim scenario like that you'll either stop having bees or adapt and find new methods. Id keep an open attitude towards alternatives or at least look whats happening overseas. With regards to varroa you can actually look into the future there. Saves you from having to reinvent the wheel.
  15. Yes true in germany you might have a broodless period over winter. but complete removal of all (capped) brood is a technique used for the late summer/autumn treatment. It does sound extreme but to my experience and the one of many others it works very well and the hives recover very quickly. As far as i know the juvenile hormone of hatching brood does play a role in the aging of adult bees (thats one of the reasons winter bees live that long when the hive is broodless) assuming the mite level really is very high the removed brood would be mostly diseased and a burden anyway. as far as i know apis cerana (the asian honey bee, which co evolved with the varroa mite) also sometimes does abscond (eg hive swarms without erecting swarm cells, leaving all brood behind) if mite levels get too high. So do africanized honeybees (apparently all bees seem to have this trait, just not very strongly developed). youre basically mimicking this process. they can handle it (which is amazing)... just make sure they have enough food/feeding/flow and some drawn comb to give them a head start
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