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Everything posted by Mummzie

  1. absolutely out of the box. You would have gone to the beach this morning . Himself went to golf. Its sunshine and blue sky again now. Our cucumbers are lacework and some of the chillis have no leaves left. This will have obliterated the berry fruit harvest and probably written off much of the apple and pears. What an end to 2020 for those farmers.?
  2. If you found one- there's likely more in the brood. Your dosage is correct. At this time of the year, the bees should out-breed the mites, but in Autumn its is a different matter as the mite population catches up.
  3. Even if the queen laid out all the new 5 frames in the first box 2 weeks ago, those bees will still be capped larvae. When they hatch, the queen will have their cells to lay in- along with the original nuc frames. Rule of thumb for space is for every frame of capped brood, you need 2 frames of space for them- so the second box supplies that. Assuming the queen is laying in the second box- they wont be hatching until just before you get back. A third box should be plenty of space. Your bees will be busy looking after brood. I hope you placed enough Bayvarol to cover 2 brood boxes ?
  4. welcome to beekeeping @8 Stings. Well done spotting the mites and treating for them. The honey collected will be able to be used by your bees over winter. Its not usual to get a harvest from a nuc at this stage- the hive will need all they can store. Also, I assume your bees are drawing out foundation, so that will reduce the crop. As the hive population grows, they will consume more. By all means add another box (excluder your choice). And be sure there will be others with different opinions...That's beekeeping.
  5. Welcome @scramble. Hope to hear more from you- it sounds like you had a steep learning curve with your first nuc.
  6. Powershot Double Sided Frame Cleaner • Ecrotek WWW.ECROTEK.CO.NZ are you referring to this?
  7. It looks like you have just taken posession of a 5 frame nuc and it is now in a 10 frame box, with 5 frames of foundation. They will be exploring the increased space you have provided (and are assessing the amount of work there is to be done). Its common for there to be bees on the walls of the hive box. As your hive grows you will find that space where there aren't bees is less common than places where they are. Enjoy your bees, relax, they know what they are doing.
  8. are you a little tempted to run them with just monitoring to see if their (assumed) varroa free status is notable? Were they in a relatively bee free location and didn't go robbing...or all of the other varroa spreading behaviours.? I suppose what I'm asking is 'whats your opinion on why they have survived in the wild'
  9. you would probably do the hive a favour if you intervened and gave them a young queen to assist recovery from the virus
  10. I agree..it can take as long to clean up all the extraction gear as it does to spin it out. Benefit of spinning- you still have comb. (maybe) I would make sure there is some filtration system- and a gate is almost essential.
  11. Welcome to the forum @Lauren916. Finding a mentor is the best way to learn beekeeping, and a good place to start looking is the local bee club. I think /hope@tudor might be able to help you find the club in your area. Second best is to spend hours on here reading and asking questions. I make a few molded candles with my wax, but am far from able to give tips. Apparently the right size wick and priming it is required. However I don't think anyone who has received a candle from me has ever lit it yet.? Home wax processing is easy enough. Just don't ever expect to use the equipment for anything else ever again....but first...bees and looking after them.
  12. I don't understand your comment about being better to leave the queen cells. Were they swarm cells (usually along the bottom of the frames) or supersedure cells (on the face of the frame)? Assuming they were swarm cells, removing them was the correct action- otherwise you risk the hive repeatedly swarming. Unfortunately stopping a swarm is not as simple as removing the queen cells- unless you are absolutely meticulous and remove every single one. That means hive inspections every 2 weeks- and they are good at hiding swarm cells. A solution is to split the hive- effectively creating an artificial swarm. At least then you are in control. You gave your swarm premium conditions- and they are making the most of it. I hope they continue to do well.
  13. Awww...you spoiled my vision of your bush- with wild blueberries and possibly a passing foraging bear......now its just a tangle of prickly blackberries (just like we have in uncared for areas) Blackberry is a pest plant here. One of my daughters fond memories of time in Northern Italy was foraging for wild blueberries.
  14. this is exactly the comment made by a job seeker I know of. He was searching for employment but not available for 8-5 because of child care and there was no flexibility.
  15. let us know when you manage to breed blue dot Queens. ? Keep in mind that to get a well mannered queen its best to start with a well mannered Mother and hope the father is polite too.
  16. It is wonderful to see a bee population build up. Its' my favourite part @Philip Allen. There are several possibilities here, and likely to be several other opinions. First question to consider is where the swarm came from. Is it from your hives, or is it from another one which may have different genetics ? As to your specific question- swarms can come with all sorts of queens- old, new, virgin. I have learned (and there's no guarantee this is the whole truth) that the prime swarm will leave with the old queen. There may be after-swarms that will leave with virgins or young queens. You don't say if you gave the swarm foundation or drawn comb. The swarm leaves with full bellies and young bees. They are the wax making & brood rearing bees- hence the apparent vigor.
  17. in the garden section of most hardware stores you can buy gloves made of knitted cotton, the palm side of which is coated in rubber.
  18. straight line....no. I have some that turn 90 degrees upon leaving the hive. But 20-50 meters .....about right.
  19. Ours miss the clothes line but are bulls-eye on the ute parked out the front (ours fortunately). In a town situation their flight path can impact neighbours- and the prevailing wind can change the result from falling on the lawn to splattering the windows. Hive population is another factor. Getting the locals onboard may save a lot of grief, and gives an opportunity to prevent poisoning issues if they know it can impact your bees.
  20. Should a swarm be fed? The swarm heads off with full bellies and expects to fend for itself. Some feel a swarm should be housed on foundation so they use up their stores making wax rather than feeding brood, as a means of reducing the risk of AFB. In better weather conditions the swarm would have established house and foraged. One of several opinions- this is beekeeping after all. sure could have. would an excluder stop a swarm leaving?
  21. Empty as in formed but with no grub, or ripped open, or hatched ? I'm thinking there was a virgin in the swarm? and those 2 weeks of cruddy weather was enough to send us all grumpy. Unless you fed it- they were probably hungry. Thays my tuppence. Now to wait for the Clever ones answers.....
  22. Go on. Tell us. How many did it take? I'm betting on 2 and envious of the blue sky.
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